April 21, 2008
Cimonino Semistagionato Valsassina
I was at Whole Foods the other day with my wife, and while she was buying the food we actually needed for the week, I was hanging out at the cheese counter. (I always say support your local cheese monger, but if you're in a grocery store with time to kill, the cheese section is better than anywhere else!) While there I spotted this tiny little tube-like cheese called Cimonino Semistagionato Valsassina. I'd never had it. It was cheap. I was hungry. I think you see where this is going.
The Cimonino comes in a cylindrical shape, pretty small, and is a cow's milk cheese with a moldy rind. It's quite soft, and to me, slightly reminiscent of a Gorgonzola. Now, I am a salt nut, so salty doesn't bother me--but let me warn you, this is an extraordinarily salty cheese. It's balanced with a slight sweetness when it first hits your tongue, but then, wham! Piquant. That's the polite way of saying it's got some bite. It's a peppery, almost astringent, taste, but without the citrus notes you would usually expect with a tart cheese.
I enjoyed it quite a bit, and I think it would go really well with a big, in your face red wine. If you like piquant cheeses, or if you like moldy cheese in general, give it a shot. It's pretty inexpensive and would make a nice addition to a cheese plate or paired with wine.
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October 27, 2007
Bathtub Cheese
I enjoy all kinds of cheese. I love queso fresco and queso oxaca. But under no circumstances would I advocate, let alone eat, bathtub cheese.
Posted by Dave! Permalink
April 6, 2007
Petit Livarot de la Perelle
This year, for my birthday, my friend Amy gave the gift of cheese! The first cheese I got to sample was Livarot is a washed rind cheese that hails from Normandy. It's made from cow's milk, and is shipped in a wood box, wrapped with strips of paper (or bullrush leaves) in a five-band pattern, which gives rise to the knickname The Colonel. The particular cheese I had was a Petit Livarot de la Perelle.
The cheese has an orange-reddish rind, which results from the washing, which promotes the bacterim Brevibacterium linens, the rind is slightly sticky, and pungent. And when I say pungent, I mean, my wife wouldn't let me keep it in the fridge more than a day pungent!
If you can get past the smell--and I highly recommend that you do! You will find a cheese that is very, very delicious and not nearly as strong as the smell would indicate. The interior ranges from slightly runny to more firm, with a few small holes and a light, straw yellow color.
The taste is milder, with a very slight gaminess--mostly a hold-over from the rind smell. Getting away from the area closer to the rind, it is a very pleasant, mild taste with a little bit of spice and a slight hint of pepper. It's a complex cheese that doesn't really need any accompaniment, I just enjoyed it straight up, by itself.
The washed rind cheeses aren't for everyone, it takes a lot of people a while to get past the pungent smell. But I invite you to be adventurous and give it a try, you might be surprised that something that smells so strong could be so mild and delicious!
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Bonne Bouche
Another birthday cheese from Amy was Bonne Bouche (which means "good mouthful" or "delicious morsel") which is a pasteurized goat's milk cheese from the Vermont Butter and Cheese Company.
Bonne Bouche is an American Cheese Society winner for aged goat cheese and one taste and it's not hard to see why! It's an ash-ripened cheese, with a mottled green-grey rind and a very soft, creamy texture--but not runny. You can eat Bonne Bouche as a young cheese or as an aged cheese, depending on your preference.
The taste is very characteristic of a great goat cheese--nice and creamy, wuth hints of citrus and a very lemony aftertaste. For a goat cheese lover like me, this was a fantastic hit. If you've enjoyed any of the other goat cheeses that I've recommended (such as Humboldt Fog) you should definitely give Bonne Bouche a try!
Posted by Dave! Permalink
February 25, 2007
Dubliner
A friend of mine recently said, "What cheese should I buy if I'm not at la fromagerie? What if I'm just at [gigantor supermarket] and want some normal cheese to eat? What should I buy then?"
Well, without digressing into what exactly a "normal" cheese is supposed to be, or why it's so worth the extra trip to a well-stocked cheese monger, I thought, "okay... what would I buy?"
I can tell you what I would not buy. I would not buy a cheese that was labeled "cheese product" or "cheese food". Nor would I buy a "brie" that comes in a plastic container. Why not just spread paste on your baguette?
But there are some decent mass-market cheeses that are pretty tasty and easy to find in many major chain groceries. Today I give you one such cheese: Dubliner.
Dubliner is marketed under the Kerrygold brand but is actually made by a large dairy/food ingredients manufacturer in Cork called Carbery. Their website lists several varieties of Dubliner, but I've only encountered the "Vintage" and the "White". Today, I'll be tasting the "White" as it seems to be the most commonly available.
Dubliner is an aged cheese, similar to a cheddar. (The Kerrygold website calls it "not unlike a cheddar...") Well, if you like aged cheddar, you will probably like Dubliner. It's not a sharp as some aged cheddars I've had, but it is pleasantly sharp and nutty. It has a nice, tight curd and is dry--slightly flakey, but melts nicely in your mouth. Those Carbery folks do have a good sense of "mouthfeel". Even the white, which I gather is not aged as long as the "vintage" has a few calcium lactate crystals, which I just love encountering in an aged cheese.
Overall, Dubliner is a very nice mass-market cheese and a great snack cheese. This recipe for Guinness Dubliner cheese soup also sounds pretty good. So if you are in the local mega-mart and you want to grab some cheese without making a special trip to a cheese shop, I'd say Dubliner isn't a bad way to go at all!
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January 4, 2007
Morbier
Happy New Year! What better way to ring in the New Year, than with some cheese! Today, I came across some Morbier, and it's been a while since I've done a cow's milk cheese, so I thought, "Why not?!" Morbier is a French cheese, made from raw (unpasteurized) cow's milk. It has a pungent aroma, but a milder taste that it's odor might suggest. Morbier also enjoys AOC (Appellation d’origine contrôlée) protection, which means if you see Morbier on-sale with a label that says "AOC" and"au lait cru" you are getting the real deal. Morbier started off as a left-over cheese that cheesemakers basically made for themselves. Cheesemakers who were making Comté (another wonderful cheese--but that's another review) would save the left-over curd and make a pale straw colored, semi-soft cheese for their own personal enjoyment. Because Morbier was made from leftovers, they would cover the morning curds in ash to prevent them from forming a rind, and then add the afternoon milk on top. The result was a cheese with two halves and a distinctive line of ash in the middle. I've seen various sites today that say this morning/afternoon tradition is carried out, and others that say the ash is now ornamental. The later seems more likely to me, and I couldn't taste the difference between the two halves on this round. If you're like many people, the idea of a stinky cheese isn't your thing. I will caution that Morbier does have a distinct, strong odor. To me, it smells very earthy and farm-like. You can definitely smell "yeast" as well. However, I think the flavor is much more mild than the smell. Texture wise, it's a softer cheese, but not runny. It's kind of squishy, in a good way. It melts in your mouth, with caramel notes and a slight nuttiness, and a distinctive "hay" or "straw" taste. It really does taste like a cheese you would be served at a farmhouse after coming in for lunch from the field. If you see this one at your local cheese shop or grocery, I recommend picking it up as a good sampling of a raw cow milk that comes on a little strong, but lands you softly in the hay.Posted by Dave! Permalink
November 14, 2006
Saint Felix
This weekend was an extraordinarily good cheese weekend. I wandered into my local cheese shop, Marion Street Cheese Market and asked my cheese monger, "What have you got that you really like?"
Well, he was quite excited to be carrying cheeses by a cheesemaker from Wisconsin, Felix Thalhammer. Apparently, Marion St. is the first shop outside Wisconsin to carry Felix's aged cheeses. Now that I've sampled them, I can see why Eric was so excited!
Felix owns Capri Creamery specializing in artisan goat cheeses. The first cheese I tried and purchased is Saint Felix.
St. Felix is an aged, washed rind goat cheese, which take 2-3 years to prepare. The St. Felix is apparently the first of these cheeses, and let me assure you, it's fantastic.
The cheese has a good, strong smell, you just know it's going to be good! It has a nice, firm texture, with a larger crumble, so it has a nice bite to it, but it still feels great in your mouth, maybe even a little "fatter" than most goat's milk cheese feel. It's a washed rind cheese, so it's nice and salty, with a slightly gritty, nutty finish that will remind you slightly of Parmesan.
Since Felix's cheeses are made by hand by him alone, they're probably going to be hard to find outside of the Midwest, or even Wisconsin for that matter! But I did notice you can order on his website. You should do yourself a favor and order some. If the St. Felix is any indication of Felix's talent for cheese, we should have some really stunning cheeses down the road!
Coming soon, Govarti...
Posted by Dave! Permalink
October 25, 2006
Midnight Moon
I have to hand it to the folks at Cyrpress Grove Chevre, they know their goat cheeses!
As you may already know, Cypress makes one of my favorite cheeses, Humboldt Fog so it wasn't hard to get me to try Midnight Moon, which is an aged goat cheese, very Gouda like in style, taste and appearance.
This one isn't actually made by Cypress Grove, it's made for them by a Dutch company (hence the Gouda style, I presume). It's aged just right, with a few crunchy crystals and a nice, firm texture. It's got a little bit of that goat tang, but it's still pretty rich in buttery, caramel goodness. It's a very, very tasty cheese and makes a delightful snack.
Posted by Dave! Permalink
October 18, 2006
Florette
Yesterday I had a goat's milk brie style cheese called Florette. It's a creamy white mold cheese, imagine a texture similar to brie or Camembert, but with it's own flavor.
Unlike some other cream goat cheeses, that
shall remain nameless, Florette is extremely mild, and not marked by a strong goat flavor or even a pronounced tang. Instead, it's a smooth and deliciously creamy treat, with a very subtle flavor. Anytime you might think you'd be in the mood for Brie, mix things up a bit with Florette and I don't think you'd be disappointed.
Posted by Dave! Permalink
September 21, 2006
Pleasant Ridge Reserve
I had the pleasure of sampling another ACS winner this week, this one is a raw cow's milk cheese called Pleasant Ridge Reserve from the Uplands Cheese Company in Wisconsin. This one is a repeat, having won the ACS best in show award in 2001 and 2005!
Picture cows grazing in an open pasture in Wisconsin, that's where this cheese starts. It's made from fresh, unpasteurized milk, which gives it a wonderful flavor with great terroir. )And if you don't believe that cheese has terroir, you haven't been eating enough good cheese.)
The Pleasant Ridge Reserve reminds me a bit of a Gruyere. It's not quite as "rough" as Gruyere, that is it's not nearly as firm, nor does it have the grit/grain of a good aged Gruyere. However, it has a very, um, pleasant flavor that make it a really fantastic, straight up eating cheese. It has a great, nutty taste, which really hit the spot on this chilly fall day. I did not melt it, but I have a feeling it would melt well, and I'm sure it would be great to sample at different ages to experience it again and again.
Posted by Dave! Permalink
Cabot/Jasper Hill Cloth Bound Cheddar
I finally sampled the winner of the American Cheese Society Best in Show from their 2006 convention, which is the Cabot Clothbound Cheddar.
This cheese is actually a joint venture from Cabot and Jasper Hill Farm both Vermont cheesemakers of extraordinary quality. (Jasper Hill makes Constant Bliss.)
What can I really say about this cheese that would make you try it, I mean, it won the Best in Show from the American Cheese Society!! They know cheese!! Seriously, this is a delicious cheddar, the way cheddars should be. The cheese that originated in England is done very proud with this one. It's aged bound in cloth, like an English cheddar, in fact, it reminded me a lot of the first English cheddar I had as a kid. It's a nice, sharp cheddar, but not too sharp. Aged just right to be flaky with a little bit of grit/grain and delicious flavor.
Check out just how good an American cheddar can be and pick up some for your next cheese board!
Posted by Dave! Permalink
September 10, 2006
Brillat-Savarin
If you're a gastronome you probably know who Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin is. Well, gastronome I am not. But if you're like me, you remember the opening quote from Iron Chef:
Tell me what you eat, and I will tell you what you are. —Brillat-Savarin
You are what you eat. Which may explain why I'm so cheesy. Sorry, sometimes I can't resist.
Well, it turns out the French gourmand has a cheese named after him! Brillat Savarin cheese is a triple-cream cheese, made from cow's milk. It is smooth and creamy. Imagine, really, a block of sweet, creamy butter, shaped into a cheese wedge.
In fact, I'd bet that if you shaped it into a stick, people would put it on their bread and not say a word. Well, some people might say, "What is this butter, it's phenomenal!" Well, okay, not quite. You can still tell it's cheese. But it is that creamy and buttery. Which is also delicious.
Posted by Dave! Permalink
September 8, 2006
Jasper Hill Constant Bliss
I know that it may seem like I only eat goat's milk cheese, as I have been on a bit of kick recently. So this time out at the cheese monger, I decided to go cow. Wow. Am I ever glad I did!
This week, I went with Constant Bliss from Jasper Hill Farm which is located in Vermont. This is a wonderful cheese, made from raw cow's milk. It's a fantastic cheese which showcases just how amazing raw milk cheeses can be.
The cheese is based on a French chaource, which is a young, raw milk cheese. In fact, this cheese is quite a young one, coming in at 60 days. But wow, has it every developed.
Everything about this cheese is a winner... the odor is pungent, but not overwhelming or unpleasant. The cheese is covered in a mild white rind, followed by a pale yellow, creamy (semi-soft) cheese. But hidden in the the color gets lighter and the texture becomes a little chalky... it's almost as if the middle contains a pat of butter. And it tastes like it, too.
This is a really creamy tasting cheese, you know with the first bite it's cow's milk. It melts in your mouth with a rich, silky feel and the tastes of fresh cream and butter are very pronounced. If you like butter, you will almost certainly love this cheese. If you want to taste just how incredible cheese can be, this is an excellent one to add to your tasting list.
Posted by Dave! Permalink
September 3, 2006
O' Banon
A few weeks ago, I had my first Banon which you may recall, I *adored*.
Banon is a French goat cheese typically made from a raw goat's milk. The O' Banon is a domestic offering from Capriole Farms in southern Indiana. I've also reviewed their Wabash Cannonball, which is a really outstanding cheese.
The Capriole's O'Banon takes its name from the former Indiana Governor, Frank O'Bannon. The O'Banon is wrapped in traditional Chestnut leaves, but that's where tradition ends. Instead of wine, the O'Banon is soaked in Bourbon, which gives it a distinctly different flavor--although still quite good.
Inside, it's a softer cheese, the consistency of a typical chevre. It's not runny, it's still firm, but soft and spreadable. It's a young cheese, too, so it's not chalky, nor is it very strong in flavor. It's quite mild, and if you aren't a fan of the "goat" tang, you won't find it in this cheese. It's deliberately younger, not ripened, to give it that lighter, fresher taste, and I'd say mission accomplished.
It's not the earth shattering experience that I had with my first Banon, but I really enjoyed this one, it would make an excellent counter to a stronger flavored cheese on any board, and the light freshness of the cheese, combined with the hint of woodiness from the bourbon is a really nice touch. And it's another great example of a traditional old world cheese that is being embraced by farmstead producers here in the United States, with a decidedly new world twist that demonstrates that American producers are artists in their own right.
Posted by Dave! Permalink
August 29, 2006
Garrotxa
I took a little informal survey and asked people to name a country known for producing cheese. I got a lot of "France" and some "England" but I didn't get any "Spain". That's really too bad, because the Spanish make some really fantastic cheese.
One of those cheeses is Garrotxa, which hails from Catalonia in northern Spain, sandwiched between the Pyrenees and the Mediterranean.
Garrotxa is a raw goat's milk cheese, which is covered in a blue-grey, felt-like rind. I've seen it described as semi-soft, firm and even one description that said it was creamy! I'm not sure what's up with that, but the piece I had I would say was firm (or maybe semi-hard) not hard, but definitely not soft--you still had to cut it with a knife. The color was a pale white with a nice texture and good mouth feel.
The rind had a nice "musty" smell from the blue-grey mold and there was a bit of that taste in the cheese, too. Almost reminiscent of walnuts, but without any tanic or bitterness. Fresh walnuts, like you find at the base of a tree and break open yourself... fresh, woody, nutty. Good. It does have that characteristic goaty tang (which I love, love, love) but it's not as prominent as it is in the creamier goat cheeses. It's a nice, mild flavor. This is very much a table cheese, excellent for snacking. Another Dave recommended cheese.
Also, as a bonus, while I was looking up sites on Garrotxa to link to this review, I found a great article about Enric Canut who is a leader in bringing artisanal Spanish cheeses back after Franco. I'm going to have to dust off my Spanish and check out his book, Los 100 Quesos Españoles.
Posted by Dave! Permalink
August 19, 2006
Prairie Blazing Star Banon
Banon is a traditional French cheese, named from it's town of origin, Banon, in Provence. Traditionally, it's made from goat's milk or sometimes a mixture of goat's milk with some cow. It's wrapped in chestnut leaves which have been soaked in vinegar which imparts a salty and tangy taste in the cheese.
I've been meaning to try a banon for some time, particularly the "O'Banon" from Capriole Farms. However, this week, my cheese monger recommended trying one from Prairie Fruits Farm, a farmstead cheese maker in southern Illinois. I'm always up for a new cheese, so I took home Prairie Fruit's Prairie Blazing Star Banon, and I was blown away.
The Prairie Blazing Star Banon is made from a pasteurized goat's milk, and wrapped in maple or sycamore leaves, depending on the season (I believe mine was wrapped in maple, but I was so entranced unwrapping it, I forgot to check closely!). The Blazing Star leaves are also not soaked in vinegar, but red wine, specifically, Alto Vineyards Chambourcin.
The Blazing Star is a pungent cheese, with a very smooth, creamy texture, not chalky like some goat cheeses. When you are unwrapping this delight, you smell the wine with the cheese and it really makes your mouth water.
This is a salty cheese--which I personally love. As a result of the soak and leaves, the cheese also has hints of the red wine and a really great note of "vegetation" that really complement the natural tartness from the goat cheese. It's a really complex mix of flavors which just floored me... I absolutely loved this cheese. While many cheeses present a very straightforward taste, or are dominated by one flavor, this cheese plays out on your tongue like a wine. It's a sipping cheese. Seriously. You want to roll this one around on your tongue, enjoying every little flavor it has to offer up.
I have only one bad thing to say about this cheese: it was only 2.3 oz. I should have bought more.
Posted by Dave! Permalink
August 5, 2006
Argyleshire
Another visit to the farmer's market! Unlike last week's sweltering inferno, this week was tolerable, even mildly pleasant, so we ventured out to the market. There were some storms here that knocked out our power for a bit, so that meant disposing of our dairy products, sadly, my Brunkow spreads. Not that they last long in this house, but I *hate* to waste cheese!
After restocking, I noticed that Brunkow had brought some Argyleshire to sell! You may recall I was a bit disappointed in their Pendarvis a few weeks ago.
Presumably, Argyleshire takes its name from the Argyllshire region of Scotland. I cannot say if this cheese is fashioned after any Scottish cheese or not, however it is an aged, clothbound cheese (as are most English cheddars, if memory serves). It does have some cheddar-esque characteristics. It's a slightly sharper cheese, with a golden buttery color. There is a very, very slight hint of the same astringency of the Pendarvis--I wonder if this is a characteristic of where the Brunkow cheeses are aged? However, in the case of the Argyleshire, it mellows out significantly as the cheese warms up to room temperature. The gentleman fro Brunkow whom I was speaking with said that because it's an aged clothbound cheese, the characteristics will change with the seasons as well.
Overall, I think the Argyleshire is a fine eating cheese, but I think it would be really excellent to cook with. I'm going to try making some homemade macaroni with it this week, and I have a feeling it will not disappoint.
Posted by Dave! Permalink
July 9, 2006
Pendarvis
This week I grabbed another cheese at the Farmer's Market from Brunkow Cheese. This selection was called Pendarvis: A Miner's Cheese. I'm not up on my Wisconsin history, but a little research shows that Pendarvis was a Cornish zinc and lead mining colony established in the 1800s. Apparently many of the buildings have been renovated and even some of the original prairie has been restored. The Wisconsin Historical Society has more info.
Unfortunately, as a cheese, Pendarvis needs to spend a little more time in the mine... or perhaps get the lead out. I'm not sure which. I don't know if this cheese is historically accurate to the time or not, but I know it's time is not now.
It has the potential to be a nice sharp cheese, reminiscent of a sharp, aged cheddar, but it's just not there. The texture is similar to a cheddar, but the taste has this strange, very astringent tang that is not pleasant at all. And when I say astringent, I mean astringent. Have you ever smelled "Sea Breeze" makeup remover? Well, take a hunk of decent cheddar, and place it on your tongue. Now, dab a little "Sea Breeze" (or some other astringent make-up remover) on your tongue. Yum! Pendarvis!
No, don't really do that... but you get the idea.
I've been so happy with all of the other selections from Brunkow that I'm pretty sad to be let down on this one, I'm going to ask about it next week, maybe I just got a bad slice. Dunno. But I was really looking forward to having some Argyleshire--which they had samples of, but none to buy. I hope the have it in next week!
Posted by Dave! Permalink
July 1, 2006
Wabash Cannonball
Being a native Hoosier I was super pleased to find a Wabash Cannonball at the Farmer's Market here today.
The Wabash Cannonball is a goat cheese made in Greenville, Indiana at the Capriole Farmstead. The Cannonball is a surface ripened cheese, which is formed into a ball, rolled in vegetable ash, and aged in a cave--very much in the style of French farmstead goat cheeses.
The result is fantastic. It's a denser cheese, a real "cannonball" indeed, but not heavy. The normal "goat" has mellowed out a bit resulting in just the right tang. I snarfed down a half of the cannonball (it's only 3-4oz. total) at lunch with no accompaniment and it was very tasty, although this cheese would pair well with any traditional chevre pairs.
If you can't find a Wabash Cannonball locally, you can always order one from the Capriole website along with an assortment of other artisan cheeses.
Posted by Dave! Permalink | Comments (1)
June 21, 2006
Le Bethmale de Chevre
Oh, what a fine, fine cheese! Le Bethmale de Chevre is a raw goat's milk cheese with a washed rind which hails from the Pyrenees. It has a very smooth and creamy texture, but not runny--it is a semi-firm cheese. I knew this was going to be a wonderful cheese.
I was not disappointed. I pulled it out of the fridge tonight and took a quick sample--delightful! I knew once it came up to room temperature it would not disappoint and it absolutely delivered. Bethmale has a very mild, subtle taste, with a very light touch of the citrus overtones you often get with a good goat cheese. It feels great in your mouth, practically melting with flavorful goodness. I think anyone would really enjoy this cheese, the tastes are so mild and subtle that I think even someone who "didn't like goat cheese" might like this one. It is not an "in your face" goat cheese, it's a great snacker and I think it would be great on a cheese plate, paired with strong, peppery California Zinfandel.
Posted by Dave! Permalink | Comments (1)
Pata de Mulo
"Pata de Mulo" is a raw (unpasteurized) ewe's milk cheses, which gets its name from the sort of elliptical shape. Made from the milk of Churra and Castellana sheep, it's a young cheese, aged three to four months. It's slightly creamy--but solid, with a nice level of fat that gives it a really pleasant mouth feel, with a slightly curdy texture.
I think this is a wonderful "introductory" cheese if you are interested in trying a sheep cheese, but worried about some of the acidity or "sheep" that can accompany some of the other sheep's milk offerings. There is a very, very slight hint of acidity and the gamey aftertaste, but on the whole, this is a very mild snacky cheese unlikely to offend any palate. Give it a try!
Posted by Dave! Permalink
June 5, 2006
Brunkow Cheese Spreads
My wife and I went to the farmer's market here this weekend and what did I happen to spot? Brunkow Cheese had a stand!! I'd read about their cheese spreads over at Conglomerate so I had to sample some. I was not disappointed.
I ended up taking home three spreads: jalapeño cheddar, bacon cheddar, and horseradish cheddar. My wife loves the bacon cheddar, which interestingly is the only one made with pasteurized milk (because of the bacon). All of them are all natural, with no preservatives and are very tasty. My personal fav is the horseradish cheddar, because I *love* horseradish. These are wonderful, full flavored spread, so if you're in the Midwest and happen across Brunkow at a market, buy some!
Oh, and I did get a bag of cheese curds while I was there as well... squeaky fresh good cheese!
Posted by Dave! Permalink | Comments (1)
February 26, 2006
Tessiner Geisskase
Tessiner Geisskase (couldn't find an active link!) is a pretty outstanding goat cheese. It's made from raw goat's milk and has a crumbly, (i.e. curdy) texture with a really outstanding mouth feel. It makes for a very nice, flavorful snack cheese. It's definitely on the salty side (which I like) with a definite "goat" flavor, but not overpowering. It has a great smell and a very nice, lingering finish. Don't eat it cold, let it warm up to room temperature to really get the most out of this one.
I couldn't really find much more information about this one on the web, one reseller link, which wasn't active, but Google cached, indicated the cheese was imported from Switzerland by Rolf Beeler (a noted importer) and that it was a "rare find". Well, if you find some, buy some. You will not be disappointed.
Posted by Dave! Permalink
Cornish Blue
Cornish Blue is a pasteurized cow's milk blue, which is a nice, strong blue. Their website claims it's "Gorgonzola like" but I didn't find that to quite be the case. The tasting I had lacked much of the sweetness of most Gogonzolas and had a much firmer texture, not as creamy.
Perhaps the bit I had was aged a little longer, I found it to be very sharp and a little earthy and raw tasting. The texture was firmer and a bit more chalky, slightly reminiscent of an English cheddar. I'd say it's a nice blue that could hold it's own on a cheese board, but it's definitely not one of my favorite blues--I do tend to lean towards the sweeter and creamier styles.
Posted by Dave! Permalink | Comments (1)
January 23, 2006
Nevat
Nevat is a Spanish goat's milk cheese, made from pasteurized milk. It's ripened with penicillin, so it has that characteristic creaminess near the rind with a more solid, chalky interior. The name comes from the Catalan word for "snow" and although that's supposedly because of the white, flakinesses of the rind, when I bought it from the shop already cut, I didn't notice so much.
Overall, it's a pretty creamy cheese, not unlike Brie, but firmer and more "goaty" toward the center. The flavor was delightful... delicate and smooth, with just a hint of the citrus tang that I really like from goat cheeses. I would add Nevat to the list of truly outstanding goat's milk cheese that everyone should try at least once.
Posted by Dave! Permalink
January 1, 2006
Kuntener
If you are a true cheese fan, and can take a strong assertive cheese, then you might find Kuntener to your liking. I found it very similar to the Cowgirl Creamery's Red Hawk.
Both cheeses are a washed rind cheese, with that characteristic red-orange rind that just draws me to them. The cheese itself is a softer, creamy-textured nice golden yellow as well. Kuntener differs, however, in that it is made from raw cow's milk (while Red Hawk is pasteurized). That difference turns the flavor intensity know all the way up to 11 for Kuntener. If you're a true cheese aficionado, or if you've had the Red Hawk and enjoyed it, then give this one a try and I think you won't be disappointed. But if you're like my wife and the phrase, "what the hell is stinking up the fridge" is in your commonly used phrase book, stick to a less intense cheese.
Posted by Dave! Permalink
December 28, 2005
Le Chevrot
I've always loved cheese, but it's only been recently that I've taken on trying so many new varieties, thanks to the discovery of some really great cheese shops in Chicago. One thing that shocks and amazes me is just how tasty goat cheese is... who knew? I always thought goats were good for eating garbage in cartoons and as major staples in petting zoos.
I recently had a chance to try Le Chevrot which is a very fine goat cheese, which I will highly recommend to anyone who likes a little chevre.
Le Chevrot has a textured rind, which my wife said, "looks like a tiny brain". Don't let that stop you. Le Cevrot is a nice, slightly more mature goat cheese than some of the younger chevres. It is slightly chalky, but not to an extreme, and has the nice citrus overtones that I really love from goat cheese, but not quite as tangy as something like Humboldt Fog--this is a milder, more laid back cheese.
If you're a fan of chevre in general or if you've had a chance to sample some Humboldt Fog, I would add this one to the list of goat's milk cheeses you should check out.
Posted by Dave! Permalink
Queso Valdeon
I love a good blue cheese and over the holidays, I had a chance to sample some Queso Valdeon which comes from Leon in Spain.
Valdeon can be made from cow or goat milk and the version I had was made from cow's milk. It's a very attractive cheese, a pale yellow with beautiful blue mold--it looks great on a plate. It has a very sharp taste, which kind of reminded me of an aged English Cheddar as it also had a slightly chalky texture, definitely not a creamy blue. It was very piquant, although I like that in a cheese. If you're not a sharp cheese fan, it's not for you, but I think it was a very agreeable blue that I would certainly eat again.
Posted by Dave! Permalink
December 16, 2005
Point Reyes Blue
California wines are some of the best in the world, so why should the cheese be any different? Although I am very loyal to the midwest, which also has some mighty fine cheeses, the Point Reyes Blue is an amazing blue that I would recommend to anyone.
It's not as creamy as a St. Agur or a nice creamy Gorgonzola, it's a little more solid, with a nice marbled appearance. It has a really great range of flavor though, slightly sweet but with a wonderful slight tartness that makes it a nice, solid blue.
As a bonus, it's made on the farm from the Point Reyes' own heard of hormone free cows. A great, solid "farmstead" cheese!
Posted by Dave! Permalink
November 20, 2005
Tomme de Fedou
Tomme de Fedou is another ewe's milk cheese which hails from France. I couldn't find any good sites about the cheese to link to, so you'll have to take my word for it. This is a pretty mild cheese, soft, but not completely creamy, and slightly pocked. It has the same smooth texture as other high-fat ewe's cheeses, with just a mild twinge of "sheep". There's nothing spectacular about the cheese, it didn't make me swoon, but on the other hand, I think it is a solid, tasty cheese that would be just right for snacking.
Posted by Dave! Permalink
November 16, 2005
Torta del Casar
Cheese time! This week, I sampled another raw ewe's milk cheese called Torta del Casar. Torta del Casar is a semi-soft cheese, which I've seen described as having the consistency of pudding. My piece was a little firmer than that but it was still definitely on the soft side.
I found this to be a very delightful cheese... it had a smooth texture and a very fruity taste with a hint of nuttiness... slight tang in the aftertaste, but not overly "sheep".
Here's another review over at The Cheese Diaries. I don't know that I would call this cheese, "pinnacle of human achievement in the field of soft and semisoft cheese" but it was very, very good.
Posted by Dave! Permalink
November 6, 2005
St. Agur Blue Cheese
I'm a blue cheese fiend. When it comes to cheese, I say, "Bring on the mold!" Well today, my cheese monger did not disappoint. I asked for something "creamy and mild... something between a Gorgonzola and Roquefort" and she said, "St. Agur" without hesitation.
Sure enough, St. Agur is one delightful blue cheese. It hails from the Auvergne region of France, the village of Monts du Velay. It's a cow's milk cheese and fairly young, which yields a nice, smooth and mellow flavor, not as bold as an in-your-face Gorgonzola. I noticed just a hint of pepper but virtually no sourness... it makes a killer dessert cheese. And the texture is spot on... creamy, but not too soft, it just melts in your mouth. It has such a great balance of texture and flavor, I think even those who aren't as nuts about cheese as I am would love this one.
Posted by Dave! Permalink | Comments (1)
November 1, 2005
Bucheron
After yesterday's unfortunate cheese experience I decided to play it safe today, with an old stand-by goat's cheese, bucheron.
Ah, bucheron, you are almost chevre! It's a typical goat offering, nothing offensive whatsoever, just pure goaty goodness. It's actually a little bit more chalky than a chevre. And it's round! It comes in logs, and how can you not like that? So you get a nice little round of goat cheese goodness.
I actually think the flavor is a little stronger than chevre, but not in a bad way. It has a nice, citrus-like tang in the aftertaste which does remind me a bit of the precious Humboldt Fog which is always a good thing.
Yes, after the "cheese whose name shall not be spoken" this was a very nice retreat into the familiar.
Posted by Dave! Permalink
October 31, 2005
Le Lingot du Quercy
Oh, my. It was bound to happen... on Halloween, nonetheless. I've met a cheese I do not like. There. I said it.
This was an unfortunate one... it was recommended by someone who shall remain nameless. When I remarked that Humboldt Fog was a personal favorite, they suggested I try this one. I've decided they don't like me.
Le Lingot du Quercy would be a raw goat's milk cheese, but because it is younger than the 60 day aging requirement imposed by the FDA, it's gotta be pasteurized. Damn them! Maybe. Perhaps, just perhaps, the pasteurization process is so offensive to this cheese that it injects the distinct taste of... hmmm.... ass? which so offends me.
The cheese does resemble an ingot. Whoo. That's about as close to gold as it gets. It's a pungent, tangy cheese with a flavor that might have reminded me of Camembert were it not for the overpowering tones of, well, ass. It's a runny cheese, nearly liquid, in fact, you could almost eat it with a spoon. Yum! Spoonfuls of ass!
Okay, I'm just going to stop now. I did not like this cheese.
Posted by Dave! Permalink | Comments (4)
October 30, 2005
Neal's Yard Spenwood
It's time once again for a raw ewe's milk cheese! Today's offering comes from a UK dairy, Neal's Yard and the selection is their Spenwood.
This is a hard, semi-dry cheese, made from unpasteurized ewe's milk. The folks at Neal's describe it as a "nutty, sweet cheese with a translucent appearance and a smooth texture." I'd agree, for the most part. It does have a hint on a nutty taste to it, but I wouldn't quite call it smooth... it's harder, like a Parmigiano-Reggiano, but not as crumbly. It does have a pretty good "melt in your mouth" factor to it, probably as a result of a higher fat content. The flavor is very nice, mild, but with just an ever-so-tiny nod to cheddar that it makes a fine snackin' cheese. Jolly good!
Posted by Dave! Permalink
October 16, 2005
Castelo Branco
Today's cheese was a Castelo Branco, which is another raw ewe's milk cheese, this time from the Beiras region in Portugal. It's a semi-soft cheese, light yellow in color, pocked with small holes throughout. Some reports I read indicated that it's sometimes made with a mix of ewe and goat milk, although my cheese monger indicated this sample was ewe's milk. The flavor is mild, but with a tweak of an acidic sourness, not quite citrus-like, and reminiscent of a goat's milk cheese (with a much higher fat content). Definitely worth a try although not my favorite of the ewe's milk cheeses I've tried so far.
Posted by Dave! Permalink | Comments (1)
October 2, 2005
Ossau-Iraty
Tonight's cheese was Ossau-Iraty, which is a French ewe's milk cheese. Wow, it's good, good stuff. I'm surprised they let it out of France, they usually horde the best stuff. Ossau-Iraty is actually an AOC cheese (that's Appellation d�Origine Contr�l�e) which means that it's regionally produced under strict quality guidelines. The Ossau-Iraty is one of only 3 AOC cheeses made from ewe's milk. (Another favorite of mine is Roquefort.)
This is only the third ewe's milk cheese I've had, the second being this Swaledale Ewes Cheese in England. I have to say, I'm a big fan.
Like the Swaledale, the Ossau-Iraty has a heavier or thicker feel in your mouth than a cow or goat's milk cheese. It has a mild, but distinct flavor, almost nutty, and I thought kind of like a very mild, much softer Parmesan. Another keeper of a cheese.
Posted by Dave! Permalink
September 25, 2005
Cowgirl Creamery: Red Hawk
Tonight's other cheese selection comes from the Cowgirl Creamery. This was the Red Hawk I picked up at The Cheese Stands Alone.
This is not a cheese for the faint of heart. It's triple creamed, made from organic cow's milk, with a rind that's washed in brine and aged for six weeks. The result is a very full-bodied, salty cheese that is packed with flavor. It's a soft cheese, with a reddish/orange rind and quite a pungent aroma.
If you are not a fan of pungent cheese, this one isn't for you. Personally, I love a good strong cheese, so I found this right up my alley. Taking the advice of the cheese monger, I let this one warm up to room temp and it really blossomed. It's extremely flavorful without being as over-powering as you might think from the odor. A very, very nice cheese. I'm definitely going to try more Cowgirl offerings.
Posted by Dave! Permalink
Cypress Grove Chevre: Humboldt Fog
From the Cypress Grove Chevre I sampled a goat cheese tonight called Humboldt Fog.
If you are a fan of goat cheese I would highly recommend this winner (Blue Ribbon at the American Cheese Society 2005). It's made from pasturized goat's milk with a white mold and has a line of vegetable ash in the center of the cheese. It's definitely a goat's milk cheese, although the "goat-ness" is very, very mild. It has a really great, lemony tang that lingers very pleasantly. The center is the consistency of a chevre, while closer to the rind it's creamery (think consistency of brie).
Delicious.
Posted by Dave! Permalink
The Cheese Stands Alone
The Cheese Stands Alone isn't really a restaurant, it's a cheese shop in Chicago (Lincoln Square). I just discovered this little gem, and thought I would give it a plug because it has several really great things going for it, all of which I support.
First, it's owned by husband and wife Matt and Sarah Parker. They share a love of cheese and a love for each other, and I just think that's cool. I'd love to do something like this with my wife... maybe we'll open our own practice someday!
Second, it's a locally owned small-business, which in the day of economies of scale and megamart wholesale shopping is exactly the kind of entrepreneurial spirit I like to support with my dollars.
Third, and most importantly, it's a cheese shop!
It's located in Lincoln Square on Western Avenue. They don't seem to have a web site (?!) but I guess that's because they spend their time finding great cheese. I spend too long in the shop this afternoon sampling cheeses and walked away with a pretty extensive array for tasting this week (reviews of individual cheeses to follow). Sarah was working today, and she was friendly, offered samples of cheeses I was interested in, and was knowledgeable about their stock--and cheeses they didn't have.
A great local Chicago find and well worth a visit. If you're a cheese fan in Chicago, you owe it to yourself to stop in.
Posted by Dave! Permalink | Comments (1)
September 10, 2005
Cheese!
I finished up at work a little early today, so I decided to go for cheese... after all, I'm in England, I need to take advantage of eating cheeses here that I can't get easily (or at all) at home. So here you go, six English cheeses for your reading pleasure--and my eating pleasure.
Keen's Cheddar
This is a raw milk cheddar, made by Moorehays Farm in Somerset. I thought it was fairly typical for English Cheddar, pretty much like I remember having when I was a kid. This wasn't quite as sharp as I like, I think it could have aged a little more. However, it's still a very snackable, nice traditional English Cheddar.
Isle of Mull Cheddar
Yumness. This is my kind of cheddar. Slightly softer than the Keen's and definitely with a more pronounced flavor. It's a Scottish cheese, from the Hebrides. It's got a nice sharp edge when you first bite into it that mellows out into a nice, slightly salty tartness. Definitely a winning cheddar.
Godminster Organic Vintage Cheddar
This cheese is organic because it's made from the Godminster Farm's organic cows in Somerset. It's a very mild, soft cheddar, definitely softer than either the Keen's or Isle of Mull. The flavor is nice and the cheese melts in your mouth, it reminds me slightly of a Havarti, both in texture and flavor--but not the Godminster isn't quite as tangy as Havarti.
Caws Cenarth Perl Las Blue Cheese
I decided to take a break from the cheddars, and picked up some of this Welsh blue cheese. This is a pretty mild, but quite salty blue cheese. I liked it a lot, and think it's great for straight eating--usually I prefer blue cheeses in other foods or sauces, to help take some of the edge of that tang. But this has just enough tang, balanced with a nice, creamy texture to make it good eatin' straight.
Swaledale Ewes Cheese
This is the first second ewe cheese I've ever had (I didn't realize Roquefort was ewe's milk!) and I have to say I like it. Okay, I can't remember a cheese I didn't like, but that's beside the point. It's a very mild cheese, not too hard--firm, but still slightly crumbly. The description I read said that the favor "pastoral" but I don't get that. I think it does have a fuller body than a cows milk cheese, and definitely a different flavor that I can't quite put my finger on. I will say this, if you have the opportunity to try an ewe's milk cheese, do it. I think ewe will like it. (Sorry. I couldn't resist.)
Loose Potted Cheddar
I saved the best for last. I found the best cheddar I've ever had. It's amazing. It's made from unpasteurized cow's milk, and it was sold from a large crock, full of chunks of the cheese. It's not spreadable or anything, but it's still pretty soft for a cheddar. Imagine firmer than a buffalo mozzarella, but not by a whole lot. The result is this amazing creamy consistency that just melts in your mouth with flavorful cheese goodness. It's mild, but it has this incredible cheddar flavor with a level of intensity that lingers oh, so nicely. It's an amazing cheese and hands down the best cheddar I've ever had. The guy at the cheese shop looked at me when I picked it and said, "This is a really good one. My favorite." Damn, was he right. If anyone knows where to get potted cheddar in the States, please let me know.
Posted by Dave! Permalink | Comments (2)