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January 4, 2007
Morbier
Happy New Year! What better way to ring in the New Year, than with some cheese! Today, I came across some Morbier, and it's been a while since I've done a cow's milk cheese, so I thought, "Why not?!" Morbier is a French cheese, made from raw (unpasteurized) cow's milk. It has a pungent aroma, but a milder taste that it's odor might suggest. Morbier also enjoys AOC (Appellation d’origine contrôlée) protection, which means if you see Morbier on-sale with a label that says "AOC" and"au lait cru" you are getting the real deal. Morbier started off as a left-over cheese that cheesemakers basically made for themselves. Cheesemakers who were making Comté (another wonderful cheese--but that's another review) would save the left-over curd and make a pale straw colored, semi-soft cheese for their own personal enjoyment. Because Morbier was made from leftovers, they would cover the morning curds in ash to prevent them from forming a rind, and then add the afternoon milk on top. The result was a cheese with two halves and a distinctive line of ash in the middle. I've seen various sites today that say this morning/afternoon tradition is carried out, and others that say the ash is now ornamental. The later seems more likely to me, and I couldn't taste the difference between the two halves on this round. If you're like many people, the idea of a stinky cheese isn't your thing. I will caution that Morbier does have a distinct, strong odor. To me, it smells very earthy and farm-like. You can definitely smell "yeast" as well. However, I think the flavor is much more mild than the smell. Texture wise, it's a softer cheese, but not runny. It's kind of squishy, in a good way. It melts in your mouth, with caramel notes and a slight nuttiness, and a distinctive "hay" or "straw" taste. It really does taste like a cheese you would be served at a farmhouse after coming in for lunch from the field. If you see this one at your local cheese shop or grocery, I recommend picking it up as a good sampling of a raw cow milk that comes on a little strong, but lands you softly in the hay.Posted by Dave!